Having done a few hours of coding and gotten sick of it, Tuesday ended by going back to the waterfront. The sun had come out, and on the way I found a kind of trade fair, I think with Cambodian manufacturers and business trying to sell whatever it was they sold. The secret to sales success is apparently to have louder music than anyone else, although most of the stall were populated by many bored looking salespeople and not many buyers. There was also a bit of a fairground next door on a large vacant lot.
Roundabout centre with a difference
The trade fair
Nagaworld - Japanese casino and ugliest building in Phnom Penh
Fair activity - darts at the balloons
St Remy?
Competition run by a toilet paper firm I think
Crowds buildingDown at the river, and luckily I was paying enough attention to find that the Cambodian ministry of Tourism had set up a fancy fenced off tent for tourists only, which was nice and shady. It was in a prime position next to the royal / ministerial tent and the finish line, and was much more spacious than the locals crammed onto the rest of the riverfront. I did feel a bit bad about that, but then considered it to be reimbursement for all the foreigner only charges I’ve paid.
There were more heats going on, and the crowds had grown considerably since my morning visit. Next to the barang tent was someone with a loudhailer getting the boat teams to do chants on their way past, as they headed back up river and to the start line. It was a bit longer than “Aussie Aussie Aussie” - basically a bunch of Khmer I cannot remember that ends in “…..Kampuchea!”, and the teams then reply “Sayoh Sayoh Sayoh” and wave their paddles in the air. Teams that got applause from the stands (from the tourists – the locals don’t seem to believe in cheering) got quite lively too – they really seem to appreciate it.
There were more heats going on, and the crowds had grown considerably since my morning visit. Next to the barang tent was someone with a loudhailer getting the boat teams to do chants on their way past, as they headed back up river and to the start line. It was a bit longer than “Aussie Aussie Aussie” - basically a bunch of Khmer I cannot remember that ends in “…..Kampuchea!”, and the teams then reply “Sayoh Sayoh Sayoh” and wave their paddles in the air. Teams that got applause from the stands (from the tourists – the locals don’t seem to believe in cheering) got quite lively too – they really seem to appreciate it.
Several boats also had makeshift or actual drums and symbols in them, and they would play a little tune in there and some of the crew would be up doing the Khmer hand dance and generally enjoying themselves. I think it is one of the few chances many of the provincial guys and girls get to go to the capital city, and the whole camaraderie and competitive thing makes everyone quite happy. One boat also had a (male) crew member dressed up in a glitter top, skirt and wig, blowing kisses at the crowd – sadly no photos of that one.
More boats
The barang tent
Paddles up
Close call
Paddles up again
Some crew seated, and some standing
The guys in the small boats are from Cintri, the street sweeping department - they get to fish garbage thrown into the river by the locals back out before it floats past the VIP area
Fancy dressed steerer
These guys have a banner
Liftoff Once the rowing ended at dusk, there was a wait until it got dark, then a good 30-45 minutes of fireworks while the lit up barges went past. The first one, with the Royal ensign, has an arm that extends out to the Royal platform on the river bank – the King or Prince then presses the button on the end, the arm slowly lights up back to the boat, and then the boat lights up – all very nice.
Once the barges were done (about 2 hours), it was back to the guesthouse – by now the streets were absolutely packed - all 6 to 8 lanes of the main roads (closed to vehicles and as seen in previous photos) were chock full of people going in both directions, and the vendors were out in even greater numbers. The 4-million prediction may not be too far wrong, and it was only day 1.
Once the barges were done (about 2 hours), it was back to the guesthouse – by now the streets were absolutely packed - all 6 to 8 lanes of the main roads (closed to vehicles and as seen in previous photos) were chock full of people going in both directions, and the vendors were out in even greater numbers. The 4-million prediction may not be too far wrong, and it was only day 1.
Some of the barges lit up at night
The Royal Emblem lit up
Ministry of ?
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